Siemens TK50 Nespresso

The machine and the pump seems to work normally, except that there is no water coming through the nozzle for hot water or steam.

I suspected that there was a blockage somewhere so I started with disassembling the machine. Remove the water tank and drip tray. 9 x screws without a slot for any tool. I used a pliers for these 2 screws (green ring).

I used a Dremel with a cutting disk to make a slot in these 7 screws. Afterwards I could remove them with a flat-headed screwdriver. When I was was done with the repair I replaced the screws with Phillips screws. After the screws are removed, lift the warming-plates for cups carefully away from the machine. Careful! There is a electric connector behind each cover.

Screw with a slot (green arrow), and a screw as it was originally. The clip in the picture below is used to keep the water-pipes in place.

Remove the catch. One Tx 15 screw on each side of the catch (green ring).

To remove the upper section cover. Undo the 2 x Torx (Tx 15) screws (green ring) and lift the front part of the cover. There are to hooks at the rear of the cover keeping the cover in place.

To remove the nozzle. 8 x Torx screws. 4 on each side. Red rings are Tx 15 and green rings are Tx 10. After all eight screws are undone, remove the clip holding the water-pipe in place. Pull the nozzle forwards.

The nozzle is removed in the picture below.

To check if the pipes were open/blocked I removed the clip from all 4 connections (green and red rings) and tried to blow through the pipes. The green rings were open and easy to blow through. With the nozzle in place it was impossible to blow through the pipe marked with the red circle. With the nozzle removed it was easy. To check if the nozzle was the problem, I used an air compressor to blow through it in the same direction as the water should flow. It was ok.

Then I continued by removing the water pipe from the pump (red circle). I started the machine and selected a small cup. The machine started to pump water (red circle). Then I removed the pipe from the connection in the green circle and I started the machine again. No water was coming from this end. I had found the problem. Ones again I removed the pipe from the pump (red circle). I used a air compressor to blow into the pipe. After a couple of short burst of air into the pipe it started to come water and air out of the connection point within the green ring. I connected the pipes again and started the machine and water was ones again coming out of the nozzle.  

I assembled the machine and started the "Descaling program" with 500 ml descaling agent in the water tank. Afterwards I was running some clean water through the machine, before I made myself an espresso. Another unit saved from the scrapheap!

Here are the parts laid out after I had cleaned them.

VW Golf 3, smoke coming from the steering column.

A small amount of smoke was coming out between the steering wheel and the instrument cluster. It smelled like plastic melting.

I suspected it was the ignition switch, which later turned out to be the case.

I disconnected the battery and removed the 2 Philips screws keeping the 2 plastic covers around the steering column.

Using a 13 mm. wrench and socket, I removed the bolt holding the steering column to the U-joint. (Green circles)

The bolt look like this:

On the left hand side there is a golden bolt which is keeping the steering column to the dashboard. (Green circle). I cut a trace in it to make it easier to remove.

Disconnect all the electric connectors. There are 3 connectors on each side plus the brown plastic ring around the ignition lock.

You can now pull the steering column and steering wheel out: Everything will be in one piece.

There is a Philips screw holding the ignition switch in place. (Green circle)

The new switch is to the right. Part number: 6N0905865

I opened the old switch and sure enough, the contacts where burned. (Green circles)

Hattrick R1 Run threadmill

The treadmill belt stopped completely  after stopping and starting for a few times. 

It was the time for getting out my trusted multimeter and some tools.

The display and control panel was still working as normal.

I removed the plastic panel (kept in place by 8 Philips screws) covering the motor and control circuit board.

The first I set out to do was to test if the motor was still working. I disconnected the black (-) and red (+) wire from the circuit board.

I connected my multimeter directly to the motor.

With the multimeter set to Ohm it should read 0 Ohm or close to 0. It did in my case so I went on to the next test.

With the multimeter set to VDC, I rotated the motor quickly by hand. If the motor is working it should give some voltage reading from the display of the multimeter. It did in my case so I went on to the next test.

I connected the motor directly to a car battery. The motor was turning. My conclusion was then, that the motor was working as it should and the controller circuit board had to be the problem.

I removed the controller from the treadmill by undoing 4 Philips screws (red circles) ,removing the 2 wires for the motor (light blue circles) and 2 power wires (green circles).

At the rear of the controller circuit board I found a broken leg on one of the components (red circle). Because of the weight of the component and the fact that it was not fixed to the circuit board I am sure that vibrations from running on the treadmill had caused the fault.

Before soldering it back on I glued it to the circuit board using a glue gun (melted glue). Hopefully that component will not make any more trouble in the future.

Some more info:

Motor type:

Belt type: 483J (483 mm)

Alternativ løpesko for vinter og is.

Løpesko for vinter og is.

Jeg kjøpe meg et par Icebug løpesko i den tro at det ville løse alle problemer for løpetrening på is og glatt underlag. Etter å ha brukt dem noen ganger var jeg slett ikke fornøyde med dem. Godt grep på isen men veldig stive i sålen og forholdsvis tunge. I det store og hele så gav de et veldig dårlig løpesteg.

Det var på høy tid å være litt kreativ.

Mine Reebok løpesko ble utsett som prøveobjekt.

Jeg kjøpe en pakke med 4,2 x 13 mm. boreskruer. 35 kroner for 250 stk. Borende og gjengedannende plateskrue med 1/4" sekskanthode kombikryss med vingeskive.

Det tok meg mindre enn 3 minutter å skru inn 7 skruer i hver sko.

Jeg var veldig spent på om dette kom til å fungere. Skulle jeg kjenne skruene i gjennom sålen?.I tilfelle det skulle bli problemer underveis så la jeg en liten stjerneskrutrekker i lommen, før jeg la av gårde på en 10 km. løpetur.

Resultat: Etter 10 km. løpning i 4 min./km. fart var resultatet over all forventning. Jeg kjente ikke noe til skruene inne i skoen. Alt kjentes og føltes som normalt borsett fra at jeg hadde fått et veldig bra grep på isen. Alle skruene satt fremdeles på fast. Min konklusjon er; å kjøpe dyre spesialsko med pigger er unødvendig. Vil jeg ikke ha piggene i lengre så skrur jeg dem bare ut igjen og så er skoene tilbake til hva de var i utgangspunktet.

Changing battery in a Braun Oral-B electric toothbrush

The motor seemed to be fine but "lazy" due to a poor battery.

I've always had the idea to try to repair "things" before I throw it away. It is more or less a challege I've given myself. This was also the case this time :)

I used a big flatheaded screwdriver to turn the bottom of the thootbrush 45 degrees counterclockwise.

Push the motor/battery assembly out like its shown on the photo (red arrow).

Unsolder four points. 3 x for the motor (green circle) and 2 x for the battery (red circle).

Lift the pcb away and pull or lift the battery out of the plastic holder. Notice where the thin wires from the charing coil is running!

The order of the bottom assembly is coil spring, chipboard washer, coil, rubber washer, plastic cover


The battery I used is a Sanyo 14x50 mm. 1,2V NiMH, 1500 mAh rechachable.

Notice that the + on the battery should be towards the motor. Use a multimeter to find +/- on the battery.

Put the battery in place and solder the motor and the battery to the pcb. Make sure the thin wires from the coil is ok.

Only 4 of 45 woodpaint products get approved in Swedish test.

And half are so full of mold and algae that they discouraged.

I wrote about Jotun wood paint a couple of years ago.
http://jb-service.blogspot.se/2013/05/jotun-wood-paint-and-wood-cleaner.html

Now the Swedish insurance company Folksam has tested 45 paints over two years.

The aim was to test the quality of products, so that consumers can make good choices. The results are discouraging: Only 4 of 45 products get approved. - This is the worst result ever since Folksam started testing outdoor colors, writes Folksam in the test report.

This is the fifth test in a row from Folksam , and the 45 types of paint are tested at four locations in the country for a period of two years. All products are evaluated on both function, as well as environmental and health aspects.

There are so few products that meet the criteria for function and environment which is a dissaster for manufacturer. Painting a house is an expensive project and choosing a bad product makes it even more expensive, writes Folksams paint expert Stefan Hjort in the report. More than half of the products are so full of mold, algae or other problems after two years, that Folksam completely discourages purchasing them. Three of the products were already halfway through the test over the limit of acceptable mold growth. Folksam states that the reason for even poorer performance compared with previous years, may have been a more favorable climate for microorganisms, and that this test includes multiple low colors than before. Here you can find the entire test with test results, and you can check if the paint you use is included.

The best products

The test was conducted in the period 2013 to 2015, and each product is tested on 24 panels divided into four test stations from south to north, as well as a reference panel per color stored indoors. The products were rated "good choice", "doubtful choice "or" not recommended." The test winners are classified as "good choice" for function / durability and the environment:

Beckers Akrylatfärg Max

Beckers Perfect Akrylatfärg

Falu Vapen Fasadfärg

Alcro Consist Täckfärg

The four listed products are the only ones that passed both the function / durability and environmental / health test, but there are several that get passed the function / durability. Nine products are overall good choices when it comes to durability. In addition to the ones mentioned before, these are good choices when it comes to durability.

Falu reds (linseed oil-based paints)

Flügger 100 Aqua (top coat)

Flügger 98 Aqua (deck stain)

Gjøco manor Maximal (top coat)

Hornbach / Schulz uteakrylat (top coat)

The list of paint and stain that gets stamped "not recommended" is long. Note that many of these products promise things like "Protection for up to 15 years" (ex. from Rustas Premium Fasadfärg/facade paint). These products are the same which have so much mold and algae growth after two years that you are discouraged from buying them.

Here are products that are not recommended by Folksam, after two years of testing.

 

Manufacturer	Product
Cuprinol	Fasadlasyr
Beckers	Perfect Oljefärg
Rusta	Premium Fasadfärg
Teknos	WOODEX Aqua Solid
Alcro	Modern Oljefärg
Beckers	Perfect Täcklasyr
Teknos	Tranemo reds
Alcro	Fasad Täcklasyr
Beckers	Tradition reds
Beckers	Fasadfärg Easy
Rusta	Oljefärg V
Kulturhantverkarna	Linoljefärg Fasad
Caparol	Carat Oljefärg
Engwall & Claesson	Fasadmatt
Ottosson Färgmakeri	Linoljefärg
Flügger	95 Aqua trälasyr
Teknos	Nordica Eko
K-rauta / Cello	Wintex
Jotun	Ultimate
Sigma	Sigma Life DÆK Extreme
Cuprinol	Fasadfärg Plus
Nordsjö	Tinova VX +
ÖoB / FärgLab	Housing color
Bauhaus / Swing Color	Oljefärg V
ÖoB / FärgLab	Oljefärg
Jula / Färgstaven	Träfasad / oljefärg

Changing battery on a Citroen key fob.

2003 Citroen Berlingo key fob.

1. Pry it open with a flat-headed screwdriver.

2. Push the battery in the direction of the red arrow. You will need a CR 2016 battery for replacement.

This picture shows where the RFID tag is on the PCB. There is an antenna near the ignition-switch which "wakes up" the tag and reads it. The information from the RFID is used for the cars immobilizer system.   

TomTom GO 730 touch screen not responding.

The touch screen was not responding.This repair guide is valid for other TomTom GPS as well. Ex. GO 530, GO 720, etc.


No response when touching the screen. Can't get passed the start screen.

Remove the 2 small torx screws at the rear of the unit. (green circles) 

Pry the unit open. I used a "sharp" plastic piece (light blue) which does not scratch the unit.

The unit opens like the picture below.

Open the lock (green arrows) keeping the flat cable in place and pull the cable in the direction of the blue arrow. Be careful!

Remove the display assembly from the rest of the unit and pry the black frame away from the assembly.

Remove the rubber seal from the LCD.

Remove the LCD/display from the rear frame and replace it. The LCD for this unit is the same as GO 530, GO 720 and GO 730.

Put the unit together again in reverse order.