Siemens TK50 Nespresso

The machine and the pump seems to work normally, except that there is no water coming through the nozzle for hot water or steam.

I suspected that there was a blockage somewhere so I started with disassembling the machine. Remove the water tank and drip tray. 9 x screws without a slot for any tool. I used a pliers for these 2 screws (green ring).

I used a Dremel with a cutting disk to make a slot in these 7 screws. Afterwards I could remove them with a flat-headed screwdriver. When I was was done with the repair I replaced the screws with Phillips screws. After the screws are removed, lift the warming-plates for cups carefully away from the machine. Careful! There is a electric connector behind each cover.

Screw with a slot (green arrow), and a screw as it was originally. The clip in the picture below is used to keep the water-pipes in place.

Remove the catch. One Tx 15 screw on each side of the catch (green ring).

To remove the upper section cover. Undo the 2 x Torx (Tx 15) screws (green ring) and lift the front part of the cover. There are to hooks at the rear of the cover keeping the cover in place.

To remove the nozzle. 8 x Torx screws. 4 on each side. Red rings are Tx 15 and green rings are Tx 10. After all eight screws are undone, remove the clip holding the water-pipe in place. Pull the nozzle forwards.

The nozzle is removed in the picture below.

To check if the pipes were open/blocked I removed the clip from all 4 connections (green and red rings) and tried to blow through the pipes. The green rings were open and easy to blow through. With the nozzle in place it was impossible to blow through the pipe marked with the red circle. With the nozzle removed it was easy. To check if the nozzle was the problem, I used an air compressor to blow through it in the same direction as the water should flow. It was ok.

Then I continued by removing the water pipe from the pump (red circle). I started the machine and selected a small cup. The machine started to pump water (red circle). Then I removed the pipe from the connection in the green circle and I started the machine again. No water was coming from this end. I had found the problem. Ones again I removed the pipe from the pump (red circle). I used a air compressor to blow into the pipe. After a couple of short burst of air into the pipe it started to come water and air out of the connection point within the green ring. I connected the pipes again and started the machine and water was ones again coming out of the nozzle.  

I assembled the machine and started the "Descaling program" with 500 ml descaling agent in the water tank. Afterwards I was running some clean water through the machine, before I made myself an espresso. Another unit saved from the scrapheap!

Here are the parts laid out after I had cleaned them.

VW Golf 3, smoke coming from the steering column.

A small amount of smoke was coming out between the steering wheel and the instrument cluster. It smelled like plastic melting.

I suspected it was the ignition switch, which later turned out to be the case.

I disconnected the battery and removed the 2 Philips screws keeping the 2 plastic covers around the steering column.

Using a 13 mm. wrench and socket, I removed the bolt holding the steering column to the U-joint. (Green circles)

The bolt look like this:

On the left hand side there is a golden bolt which is keeping the steering column to the dashboard. (Green circle). I cut a trace in it to make it easier to remove.

Disconnect all the electric connectors. There are 3 connectors on each side plus the brown plastic ring around the ignition lock.

You can now pull the steering column and steering wheel out: Everything will be in one piece.

There is a Philips screw holding the ignition switch in place. (Green circle)

The new switch is to the right. Part number: 6N0905865

I opened the old switch and sure enough, the contacts where burned. (Green circles)

Hattrick R1 Run threadmill

The treadmill belt stopped completely  after stopping and starting for a few times. 

It was the time for getting out my trusted multimeter and some tools.

The display and control panel was still working as normal.

I removed the plastic panel (kept in place by 8 Philips screws) covering the motor and control circuit board.

The first I set out to do was to test if the motor was still working. I disconnected the black (-) and red (+) wire from the circuit board.

I connected my multimeter directly to the motor.

With the multimeter set to Ohm it should read 0 Ohm or close to 0. It did in my case so I went on to the next test.

With the multimeter set to VDC, I rotated the motor quickly by hand. If the motor is working it should give some voltage reading from the display of the multimeter. It did in my case so I went on to the next test.

I connected the motor directly to a car battery. The motor was turning. My conclusion was then, that the motor was working as it should and the controller circuit board had to be the problem.

I removed the controller from the treadmill by undoing 4 Philips screws (red circles) ,removing the 2 wires for the motor (light blue circles) and 2 power wires (green circles).

At the rear of the controller circuit board I found a broken leg on one of the components (red circle). Because of the weight of the component and the fact that it was not fixed to the circuit board I am sure that vibrations from running on the treadmill had caused the fault.

Before soldering it back on I glued it to the circuit board using a glue gun (melted glue). Hopefully that component will not make any more trouble in the future.

Some more info:

Motor type:

Belt type: 483J (483 mm)